a world of interiors

Brooks Brothers Jacket Anatomy

I have an obsession with jackets.  They are quite literally my favorite thing to ogle.  It might have something to do with my menswear obsession.  These two jackets are the nicest items of clothing I own, bar none.  They’re not the most expensive, they’re not the flashiest, I don’t wear them the most often, but they are amazing.  Thom Browne for Brooks Brothers Black Fleece from the Autumn 2007 collection.  Usually they’re astronomically priced (jacket prices at Black Fleece have halved since then, oddly), but I managed to get these samples for a song.  However!  They have that hideous red marking over the brand-identifying labels and the lining is not the most inspiring.  Observe:


Lining Photo

I’m sans machine until the search is over and have decided that I need some busy work.  I’ve never worn either of these because Thom Browne is poorly acquainted with female anatomy (breasts, dear lamb; they’re called breasts), but the arm-shoulder-back areas of these jackets fit me obscenely well.  I figured it would be a lovely lesson in construction if I were to rip out the lining and hand-replace it with some sort of fabulous silk.  I had been lusting after these jackets since I first saw them previewed, but I was not a sewer back then.  I just thought, “Hey, awesome well-made tailored jacket.  Fabulous.”  Reader, when I approached the jacket I was shocked.

Three interior welt pockets, one wth a nifty flap that hides its horn button closure.  Three exterior pockets: two flap, one breast.  Working buttons at the cuffs.  Keyhole buttonholes.  Cotton-modal blend lining for the body, Bemberg for the sleeves.  Catchstitching (?) on the lining.  This armscye thing whose name I don’t know but damned if it won’t go into every jacket I make.  All that stuff that Claire Shaeffer has been going about is in my closet!  All my favorite stuff about menswear (read: pockets!) with all of that other “hand-stitch until your fingers bleed” loveliness.


You see, I don’t snoop shop.  I either shop or, um, not.  I haven’t really shopped at all since I started sewing nor have I gone through my wardrobe to scope out details.  Bad sewer, party of one.   What I’m saying is that I have discovered a whole new world of interiors.  Late to the party?  Yup.  Enthused, either way?  Yup.

This is a revelation.  The above photo is a little off, but do you notice how the stripes on the underarm business basically match the stripes on the remaining lining?  See the perfectly matched pinstripes up top?  I want to go to there.

I recently got some it’s-my-birthday-so-I-can-rationalize-this fabric from Mood with the intention of making a jacket.  I thought I would use Claire Shaeffer’s V8333 as a starting-off point and modify from there.  Basically, I want a hacking jacket and a schoolboy blazer to have a cashmere baby by my hand.  That sounded odd.  Anyhow, the Thom Browne/Black Fleece/Brooks Brothers jacket is what I basically aim to do, tailoring-wise.  God.  I’m going to have to buy a bolt of muslin and a heap of patience, aren’t I?  I think I’m up for it.  Just have to find the pattern/s.  And the patience.  And the skill.  This will end well.

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